I spent my last day in India, Christmas, in Kolkata, the bustling capital of West Bengal. The metropolis was India's capital under the British Raj from 1773–1911, and is the country’s oldest operating port. After arriving by night train from Varanasi, I left my bag at the station and headed into the historic area surrounding Fort William, an 18th-century British fortress and Indian army base. Indians love festivals. So it was no surprise that non-christian Indians came out in full force for to celebrate Christmas, crowding into the streets and parks to shop, snack, and hangout...